Lovin' All The Spoonfuls
By Bella English
For The Boston Globe
September 27, 2009

A year ago, Peppercornz moved across town to a new location. It was more than a geographic move; it was a culinary move. The new Peppercornz is a full dining experience, unlike the old version, which was a take-out place and cafe.

Located in a strip mall on a major street, the curb appeal of the new restaurant is less than stellar. But step inside and you’ll find yourself in a different world, with warm colors, muted lights, good acoustics, and, best of all, wonderful food that is creative without being pretentious.

Chef Linda Varraso owns the place with her partner, Taylor Beckett, who does the marketing end. Varraso has been a foodie since she was a child, when her parents, who worked and had six children, would often leave the cooking to the kids - with ingredients and instructions provided. Many of the recipes Varraso uses today are her mother’s and grandmother’s - Italian women who know their way around a kitchen. (Her mother still does the books for Peppercornz, her dad is the restaurant’s aide-de-camp.)

On the golden walls, Varraso has painted various food-related quotations. “There is no love sincerer than the love of food,’’ said George Bernard Shaw, and as I peruse the extensive menu, I can relate.

This contemporary Italian grille has something in all price ranges. You can get a calzone or a pizza, or enjoy three leisurely courses. A basket of warm homemade focaccia appears at the table, with aioli for dipping. The bread is delicious, the aioli a bit heavy on the mayo.

We start with the artichoke bites ($7), crispy fried balls with a center of chopped artichokes and three cheeses that provide a gooey treat. Though the tasty orbs stand just fine on their own, a side of red pepper aioli adds a nice kick.

The homemade gnocchi ($7) is a generous plate of ethereal ricotta dumplings, a nice change from the usual potato offerings, which can be rubbery. They are served in a delicate tomato cream sauce; the result is a melt-in-your-mouth dish.

The eggplant roll-ups ($8) let the glorious veggie shine on its own, with just the lightest batter and a filmy filling that includes garlic and sage cream cheese; it’s all drizzled with warm marinara sauce.

The Sedona pizza ($11), though it has an oil base and no sauce, is hardly naked. Indeed, it is loaded down with goodies: artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh garlic, goat cheese, and caramelized onions. The crust has puffy edges and the pie is cooked perfectly, with a slightly crisp finish.

I loved the truffle sacchetti ($17), though they were out of the little purse-shaped pastas, and substituted cheese ravioli instead. No matter. The porcini mushroom sauce, with a heady onion flavor, is delicious, if a tad soupy.

The grilled beef tournedos ($17) features twin petit-filets, char-grilled and served on a garlic crostini with a red wine and mushroom sauce. It’s a generous plate, with fluffy mashed potatoes and grilled squash.

Another good bet is the scallops Arena ($20), plump scallops and linguini served in a skillet, and sauteed in a sweet Marsala and vermouth sauce. A scattering of diced tomatoes, prosciutto, and goat cheese add flavor and color.

Don’t leave without trying Varraso’s signature dessert: lemon icebox pie ($4.59). From the graham cracker crust to the airy, tart filling, this is a winner.

Peppercornz seats 78 in two rooms and has a full bar where patrons can watch the game. It also has a deal: Tuesday through Thursday nights, a three-course dinner for two, including a bottle of the house wine, costs $49.99. (If you don’t like wine, you can get a couple of beers instead.) The wine list here isn’t very interesting; Varraso says she’s in the process of revamping it.

To that end, she’s holding a five-course wine dinner on Oct. 19, each course paired with a glass of wine that complements the food. It’s $70 a person, which includes tax and tip.

One quotation painted in the restaurant foyer states: “Food made with love, you’ll taste the difference.’’ It seems a perfect slogan for Peppercornz.

The kitchen at Peppercornz is larger than the dining area, a testimony to the bustling takeout business at this cafe tucked in a small plaza. One of the owners, Linda Varraso, comes from a large Italian family in the Boston area. Her imprint is on the handmade gnocchi and other pastas, meatballs, pizza, and calzone. The other owner, Taylor Beckett, is from California, hence the abundance of dishes with avocado and names like Catalina, Pasadena, and Laguna.

It's a happy marriage of the two cultures, with dishes that are both creative and fresh. Beckett runs the marketing side; Varraso the kitchen. She and her five siblings grew up in Braintree with working parents who would take meat out of the freezer in the morning, leaving instructions for the children to make dinner that night. "There's a roast on the counter. Salt and pepper it and add a little garlic powder and put it in a 350-degree oven at 20 minutes per pound," a typical note would say. The kids would also open a can of vegetables, prepare some sort of potato dish, and make a salad.

Their parents were always complimentary but added comments such as "maybe a little less salt next time" or "perhaps a little more garlic." And both grandmothers taught the kids how to roll pasta and make gnocchi on a huge wooden cutting board.

Varraso went on to earn an MBA, for which she had to write a business plan for a restaurant. That became Peppercornz. But Varraso knew if she really wanted to open her own place, she needed professional training, so she took classes at the Baltimore International Culinary College.

Peppercornz is compact and bright, with eight tables and a few more seats at the counter, which overlooks an open kitchen. You order at the counter, then a waitress brings the food to your table. Start with artichoke bites ($6.99), soft orbs of chopped artichoke hearts and three cheeses breaded and deep-fried to golden, crispy perfection. Parmesan adds tang, mild cheddar and mozzarella the nice gooey texture. For more kick, drag them through the accompanying cream cheese and salsa dip.

A regular special is portobello salad ($7.50), large grilled mushroom slices, served warm over iceberg lettuce, with freshly grated parmesan, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, and onions, drizzled with Varraso's homemade balsamic dressing. It's a colorful and flavorful alternative to a garden or Caesar salad.

Not to be missed is gnocchi ($7.99), which Varasso has been making since she was "in single digits." But she substitutes ricotta for the usual potato, and it shows in the pasta's lightness. ("My father called my grandmother's gnocchi 'lead sinkers,' " says Varraso.) We tried it with a delicate tomato cream sauce; it also comes with marinara. And crunchy, garlicky toast.

A friend whose women's group goes to Peppercornz regularly recommended two pizzas: ranchero ($9.99 small, $14.99 large) or sodona ($8.99 small, $12.99 large). Sodona is loaded with artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, chopped garlic, goat cheese, and caramelized onions, with only olive oil. Without a red or white sauce, the homemade crust shines.

After bread, gnocchi, and pizza, we decide to order a "carb-watcher" dish, marked with a "W" on the menu. Grilled shrimp ($10.99) are small and bland, served with grilled, slightly soggy yellow squash and zucchini.

There are two dozen sandwiches, including the Lone Star ($6.99). It's a yummy stack of burger, grilled onions and mushrooms, cheddar cheese, and homemade barbecue sauce - Varraso also did a stint in Texas - with lettuce and tomato, on a French roll. (Probably neither the Texans nor the French would approve, but we did.)

No matter how stuffed you are, try the lemon icebox pie ($3.59). It's incredibly light and very lemony. Next time, though, we'll save room for individual chocolate or apple pie pizza ($5.59).

Varraso's parents, Al and Carmela, are still their daughter's head culinary fans. Al delivers orders for Peppercornz two days a week at lunch, while Carmela handles the bookkeeping. "Proud doesn't begin to describe it," says Varraso.

Great Service Great Food!
Gordon Williamson

The food is quite unique, extremely fresh and reminds me of good with a "gourmet flair"! 
Rhonda Manning

The food is fresh and always great.
Susan Buckley

Quality of food- such pleasant owners (also that the owners are so philantropic to local communities) great to see your donated gift certificates so often!  
Loreen Koubeck

The food is so good!!! Good taste, good quality, good portions and it seems to be made very healthfully.  The hawaiian pizza is our favorite and the cheese sticks are the best.  All we've tried have been really good. 
Scott and Mary Costa

Casual Setting, varied menu, great food. 
Michelle Genua

The food is delicious. I love the spinach/fruit salad and I hold myself to one piece of my husband's pizza and split the chocolate pizza dessert. The head chef also is a great cooking instructor and we have a super time in her classes and also learn a lot. 
Gretha Lovejoy

Gourmet style food (fresh ingredients) at a
low cost.
Angela Diaz

Small enterprise, personal service, great food! 
Nina Luciano

Pleasant staff and delicious food. 
Frances Kearney

The food, the people the ambiance and the attitude,
all great! 
Maryanne Healy

The food and the customer service. It simply is
the best! 
Pamelia Crooks

The catering is the best, always perfect!  
Liz Ciccolo

The staff/food always fresh - hot and served with a customer friendly focused manner. 
Paul and Ruth Juster

The naked white pizza and caesar w/grilled steak tips.  The service is always friendly, fast and professional. 
Carol Kavanaugh

The atmosphere.  As soon as you walk in the door you feel comfortable and ready to eat. 
Paul Norton

The great sandwiches - the freshness of the food.
The owner and staff are terrific.  
Janice Clark